Changing of the Guard in Athens – The Evzones at Syntagma Square

Why not to miss the changing of the guard in Athens

The changing of the guard in Athens is one of the most photographed ceremonies in Greece, and one of the most moving. In front of the Parliament building on Syntagma Square, honour guards in traditional dress stand watch at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, and every hour on the hour they change over in a slow, precise ritual of high steps, foot strikes and perfectly timed movements. It's a short, silent and striking spectacle that links modern Greek history with the country's folk traditions. If you're already in the centre, it takes almost no effort – and leaves a big impression, on children too.

Who are the Evzones?

The guards are called Evzones, soldiers of Greece's Presidential Guard – an elite unit with a long history whose roots lie with the fighters of the Greek War of Independence. They are carefully selected and train for a long time to master the steps and the ceremony. On duty they stand without moving, speaking or reacting to anything around them, whether in the fierce summer heat or the winter rain. Beside each one there is usually another soldier in regular uniform, making sure no one gets too close. It is a role of great honour, and you can feel it.

The traditional uniform

The Evzones' dress is a big part of the magic. The fustanella – the white kilt with its many pleats – comes from traditional fighters' attire, and tradition holds that the number of pleats represents the years of Ottoman rule in Greece. The guards wear a red cap with a long tassel, and on their feet tsarouchia – heavy leather shoes with a large black pompom on the toe and nails in the sole, which make the famous clack on the stone. Over the year the uniform switches between summer and winter versions, and for ceremonial occasions the guards wear an even grander dress uniform.

When it happens and what's special on Sunday

The regular change takes place every hour on the hour, day and night, and lasts a few minutes. But if you can, try to come on a Sunday in the late morning: that's when the ceremonial change takes place, with a full company of Evzones in dress uniform marching through the streets with a military band to the Parliament – a far bigger and more stirring sight. On Sundays the area gets very crowded, so arrive at least half an hour early for a good spot. Ceremony times may change on holidays and for special events, so it's worth checking beforehand.

Tips for watching and photographing

The best place to stand is in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, in the centre, a little before the hour. Photos are allowed, and you can pose next to the guards while they stand at their posts – but don't touch them, block their path or cross the line marking their area, and don't try to make them laugh. If someone gets too close, you'll hear a sharp strike of the rifle butt on the stone – that's the warning. Keep an eye on children who want to get closer. At midday in summer the square is very sunny with no shade, so morning or evening is more comfortable.

The Parliament and the National Garden

The Parliament building was built in the 19th century as the royal palace of modern Greece's first king, and only later became the seat of Parliament. Right behind and beside it spreads the National Garden – a green, shady park with paths, ponds, ducks and old trees, the perfect escape from the heat and noise of the city. Beyond the garden stands the Zappeion, an impressive neoclassical hall set in gardens, and from there it's a short walk to the Panathenaic Stadium, built entirely of marble and host of the first modern Olympic Games. The whole area makes a relaxed outing of a few hours.

Combining it with the rest of your day

Syntagma Square is the centre of the city, and everything is close: Ermou Street for shopping runs down to Monastiraki, Plaka is a few minutes' walk away and the Acropolis lies beyond it. A good route starts with the changing of the guard, continues through the National Garden and the Zappeion, and ends in Plaka for lunch. Syntagma metro station is also a major hub, with a direct line to the airport. To see all these sights in one go, join one of Yana's motorized city tours – and if you've just landed, Yana can arrange a private transfer from the airport straight to your hotel.

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