National Garden of Athens & Zappeion – A Green Escape in the City

The National Garden of Athens – a green lung by Syntagma

After a morning of white marble, dust and sun, the National Garden of Athens feels like a gift. This large, shady park stretches right behind the Parliament building on Syntagma Square, and within a few steps the city's noise gives way to birdsong and the shade of old trees. It was created in the mid-nineteenth century as the royal palace garden, at the initiative of Queen Amalia, and later opened to the public. Today it is where Athenians stroll, read on benches, jog and bring their children – and it's open to everyone.

What you'll find in the garden

Winding paths lead between tall palms, pines and plants from many parts of the world, brought here over the years. There are ponds with ducks and turtles, small ancient remains uncovered on the grounds, plant-covered pergolas and wonderfully quiet corners. For children there is a playground and a small zoo, and shaded benches are scattered throughout. The garden isn't about a full day of attractions – it is exactly the place to breathe, slow down and recover between sights. Half an hour to an hour here works wonders.

The Zappeion – Athens' exhibition palace

At the garden's southern end stands the Zappeion, a magnificent neoclassical building with a columned portico and a striking circular inner courtyard. It was built in the late nineteenth century with funds from a Greek benefactor named Zappas, who dreamed of reviving the Olympic Games, and it hosted the fencing events at the 1896 Olympics. It has since been used for conferences, exhibitions and official events – among them the signing of Greece's accession to the European Community. When no event is on, you can sometimes peek into the courtyard, and the surrounding gardens are wide and open for strolling.

The changing of the Evzones guard

Right by the garden entrance, opposite Parliament, is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, guarded by the Evzones – the Presidential Guard in traditional uniform, with pleated kilts and pom-pommed shoes. The changing of the guard takes place every hour on the hour, a slow, ceremonial march worth seeing at least once. On Sunday mornings there is a larger, more festive ceremony with a band. Arrive a few minutes early, stay behind the line and be respectful – this is a military ceremony honouring the fallen, not a show.

Practical tips

The garden is generally open from morning until around sunset, with hours changing by season – check if you plan to come late in the day. In summer it is the best place to escape the hottest hours. There are several entrances: from Syntagma Square, from the avenue beside Parliament, and from the Zappeion side. Comfortable shoes are all you need, and the paths suit strollers. There are a few kiosks for drinks and coffee, but bring a water bottle. And remember to look up – the trees here are impressive in their own right.

A perfect walking loop nearby

The National Garden sits at the heart of a superb walking loop: from Syntagma and the Evzones, through the garden to the Zappeion, then across to the Panathenaic Stadium on one side or the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Plaka on the other. To link all these sights with ease, Yana can arrange a motorized city tour. And after a long day on your feet, she can also book a relaxing spa treatment and massage – exactly what tired legs need.

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