A Nafplio old town guide: the first capital of modern Greece, Palamidi fortress, Bourtzi castle, the seafront promenade and tips for a day trip from Athens.
By Yana, a local in Athens · Updated October 2026
Nafplio – Greece's most romantic town
Nafplio's old town is one of the loveliest in Greece, and many would call it the most romantic. It sits on the Argolic Gulf in the Peloponnese, roughly two hours' drive from Athens, and brings together a maze of old lanes, Venetian fortresses on the hills and a small castle in the middle of the sea. Beyond its beauty, Nafplio holds a special place in history as the first capital of modern Greece after the War of Independence, before the capital moved to Athens. Most people who come for a day leave wanting to return – and stay longer.
Wandering the old town lanes
The best way to discover Nafplio is to get happily lost in the old town. Narrow lanes are paved in stone, neoclassical houses are painted in warm colours and wrought-iron balconies drip with bougainvillea. Syntagma Square, the main square, is framed by Venetian and Ottoman-era buildings and lined with cafés. The streets are full of small shops selling local produce, jewellery and handmade souvenirs. Explore in the morning before it gets busy, or towards evening when the light softens and the heat eases.
Palamidi Fortress – the best view in town
Palamidi Fortress crowns a high hill above Nafplio and is one of the most impressive examples of Venetian fortification in Greece. You can climb the long stairway from town – close to a thousand steps, according to local tradition – or drive up to the entrance. If you take the stairs, bring water, wear good shoes and go in the cooler hours. At the top you'll find walls, bastions and a sweeping view over the town, the gulf and Bourtzi. Opening hours vary by season, so check before you go.
Bourtzi – the castle in the sea
Bourtzi is Nafplio's emblem: a small stone fortress built on a tiny islet in the harbour to guard the town's approach from the sea. It looks like a postcard from every point on the waterfront, especially at sunset and after dark when it's lit up. In some seasons small boats run out to it from the harbour, but even from the shore it makes a perfect photo. Don't miss the walk around the Akronafplia peninsula, a path between the rocks and the sea that leads to Arvanitia beach.
The first capital of modern Greece
After the War of Independence that began in 1821, Nafplio was chosen as the first capital of the new Greek state. The first government sat here, and Ioannis Kapodistrias, Greece's first governor, worked here – and was assassinated outside the church of Agios Spyridon in the old town. The capital later moved to Athens. That history is present on every corner, in the old government buildings, statues and street names, adding a rich layer to a visit that's already full of atmosphere and views.
Combining Nafplio with a trip from Athens
Nafplio is a perfect base for a Peloponnese day trip. On the way from Athens you can stop at the dramatic Corinth Canal, and nearby are the Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus and the citadel of Mycenae. Set off early to fit more in, and leave time for a relaxed meal by the sea. In summer bring a hat and water; in winter, a warm layer for the evening. Yana organises a Nafplio and Corinth Canal day trip with a private English-speaking driver, so all you have to do is enjoy the ride.
Questions & answers
How long is the drive from Athens to Nafplio?
Usually around two hours by car, depending on traffic and stops such as the Corinth Canal.
Do I have to climb all the steps to Palamidi?
No. You can climb the stairway from town or drive up to the fortress entrance.
Why is Nafplio important in Greek history?
It was the first capital of modern Greece after the War of Independence, before the capital moved to Athens.
Can I combine Nafplio with other sites?
Easily: the Corinth Canal is on the way, and Epidaurus and Mycenae are both nearby.
