Filopappou Hill Athens – Acropolis Views, Pnyx & Areopagus

Filopappou Hill – the best view of the Acropolis

For the perfect photo of the Acropolis, head up Filopappou Hill in Athens. This green hill, known in antiquity as the Hill of the Muses, faces the Acropolis at just the right height: from the top you see the Parthenon at eye level, with the whole of Athens spreading behind it to the mountains and the sea. It is also one of the quietest, greenest corners of the centre – pine and olive trees, stone paths and locals walking their dogs. The climb is fairly easy and the reward is enormous.

What you'll find on the hill

At the summit stands the Philopappos Monument, an impressive second-century AD tomb built for an exiled prince who became an honoured citizen and benefactor of Athens. On the way up you pass the small, charming Byzantine church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris, and the artfully laid stone paths, created in the mid-twentieth century, are a work of architecture in their own right. On the hillside are rock-cut chambers that local tradition calls the Prison of Socrates – historians are doubtful, but it makes a good stop with a good story.

Pnyx Hill – where democracy was born

Right next to Filopappou is the Pnyx, where the assembly of ancient Athens met. Here citizens gathered, listened to speakers and voted on the city's great decisions. You can still see the speakers' platform carved into the rock and stand where Pericles and Demosthenes once addressed the crowd. The area is quiet, open and far less touristy, with lovely views of the Acropolis. On the neighbouring Hill of the Nymphs stands the historic Athens observatory.

The Areopagus – the viewpoint below the Acropolis

The Areopagus, or Mars Hill, is a large outcrop of rock just below the Acropolis entrance, overlooking the Ancient Agora and the whole city. In antiquity it was the seat of Athens' most important court, and according to Christian tradition the Apostle Paul gave a famous sermon here. Today it is a hugely popular viewpoint, especially at sunset. Be careful: the rock is polished smooth and very slippery, particularly after rain – use the metal staircase, wear shoes with good grip and keep children close.

When to go and what to bring

Sunset is the classic time – golden light on the Parthenon and the sun sinking towards the sea is unforgettable. Arrive a little early to find a good spot, and once the sun is down you'll see the Acropolis lit up. Early morning is wonderful too, calm and cool. Bring water, wear comfortable shoes with good grip, and allow an hour to an hour and a half for Filopappou and the Pnyx together. In summer avoid midday, as there is little shade at the top. After dark, come down on the main, better-lit paths.

How to fit the hills into your day

The entrance to the hill is near the pedestrian walkway that circles the Acropolis, so it combines easily with the Acropolis Museum, the Koukaki neighbourhood or Thissio. A lovely route: an afternoon in the Ancient Agora, up to the Areopagus, across to Filopappou for sunset, then dinner in one of the neighbourhoods below. If you'd rather watch the sun set from the water, Yana can arrange an Athens Riviera sunset cruise with dinner, or a taverna night with live music and plate smashing to end the day.

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